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蔬菜丰收了,他为何快愁死了?

发表于2013-6-9  作者:郑州水妈妈水处理设备爱拼彩票APP下载  来源:大河报  浏览2724次


够壮观吧!这是李延周自制的肥料,这些肥料存放在山中这个长长的地道里发酵,用的时候过来取。


       李延周说,如果黄瓜再卖不出去就长老了,只能扔掉。

    他种的良心菜小众预订者“吃不完”,到市场上又因价高卖不掉
   阅读提示 | 在食品安全事故频出的当下,找到一片信得过的菜园,吃上安全美味的蔬菜,恐怕是许多中国老百姓的梦想。郑州市的十几位市民与良心菜农李延周的偶遇,使他们早在几年前便吃上了安全的“直供菜”。
  一方是追求纯天然、原生态的蔬菜买家,一方认为“种菜就该是这样,跟化肥、农药不沾边”的菜农,这样的“合作”看上去很美。然而,如今他们不得不同时面对一个尴尬的现实——这十几户买家建议李延周扩大种植面积,但收获期来到,他们发现自己根本吃不完这么多菜;而只会种菜的李延周对销售一窍不通,多出来的菜贱卖他不愿,高价卖又没人买账。
  
   蔬菜买家
   时隔7年 还记得那白菜“又甜又香”
   7年前的一个冬天,郑州市民张阿姨从邙山办事下来路过惠济区古荥乡黄河桥村菜农李延周的菜地,看白菜不错,便问打药了没有。李延周的父亲当时在地里忙活,回答说望天收,不打药。张阿姨便买了几棵回去,吃了以后大呼有口福。时隔7年,张阿姨还记得那白菜“又甜又香”。从此张阿姨和李延周结了缘,她逢人便送李延周的白菜,李延周则从望天收的自然状态,开始回归传统菜农的良心种植。
    一开始,张阿姨和她的朋友们只能在冬夏两季饱饱口福,而所谓的口福也不过是每年冬天每家能囤上李延周种的二百斤白菜,二百斤萝卜,夏天能吃上甜得像蜜的西瓜。
   几年间,李延周的菜田从望天收的黄河滩地发展到四五亩的山上荒地。菜地几易其址,规模缓慢扩大。随着吃菜人数的增加,张阿姨们建议李延周扩大规模,“应该让更多的人吃到这么好的菜”。今年2月,李延周在自己承包的河滩荒地里又开出七亩菜地,并听从张阿姨们的建议,全种上了受大家欢迎的黄瓜、番茄、爬豆、茄子等应季蔬菜。然而,烦恼随之而来。

  
良心菜农
   种菜就该这样,跟化肥、农药不沾边
   今年39岁的李延周打小看爷爷种菜,对种菜不陌生,在他看来,种菜就该是这样,跟化肥、农药不沾边。
   庄稼一枝花全靠肥当家,蔬菜也一样。李延周的菜园子主要施三种肥:一种是自制的生物肥,一种是牲畜粪便,一种是草木灰。
   昨天上午,沿着一条黄土小道,李延周带着大家爬到邙山半山腰的一处防空洞。打开小门,借着手电的光亮,纵深约有300米的防空洞里,一眼望不到头的堆肥包足有两三千个。随着越走越深,淡淡的酒气弥漫左右。堆肥包用厚塑料袋制成,直径约40厘米,高约30厘米,主要原料是从酒坊买来的酒糟、谷糠,表面薄薄撒一层土和生石灰。李延周管这种肥叫自制生物肥。下种的时候,把这些自制肥料和土混合均匀盖在种子上,这种底肥不仅肥力足,还能抑制虫子生长。
   底肥有了,追肥还要用鸡粪猪粪。做生意的丁女士是李延周的顾客,她说,李延周连这个也讲究,他只买鸡崽、猪崽的粪。因为,鸡崽、猪崽不喂饲料喂粮食,粪便干净。
   李延周家有一个很大的地锅,专门用来蒸馍,自家用,周围几家邻居也用。李延周喜欢吃地锅蒸出来的馍,但他更喜欢的是地锅烧出来的草木灰。那是他消灭菜园里虫子的利器。
   在李延周的菜地边,灰灰菜、蒲公英以及叫不出名字的野草一丛丛长得有小腿高。在桃花峪山上少年先锋学校工作的一位女老师看李延周为此着急,答应带几个学生来拔草。李延周说,这一段太忙,顾不上拔,人家上化肥的地里都没草。

  
尴尬场景
   黄瓜6块一斤?
    买菜的一听扭头就走
    供求双方“童话”般的合作终难抵现实的尴尬,令双方都很纠结。
    张阿姨今年七十岁,为了给自己的提议“负责”,已经一连5天每天奔波60公里,从市区跑到李延周的菜地想办法。十几个市民有钱的出钱,有力的出力,想了各种办法,但面对两亩多黄瓜每天三四百斤的产量,他们已无计可施。张阿姨甚至把每月不多的一千多块钱退休工资都买成了黄瓜,送亲戚朋友。丁女士则顾不上自己的生意,每天联系客户,联系好了再开着自己的面包车送过去。
   李延周也试过去菜市场卖,可买菜的一听说黄瓜6块钱一斤,扭头就走了。“卖5块我就赔。”前天晚上,精疲力竭的十几名市民和李延周聚在一起开会商量办法。李延周说,别家的黄瓜卖不掉,几分钱卖给咸菜厂,这事我不干,我宁可烂在地里,权当施肥了。
   昨天上午,丁女士又拉到一个100公斤的“大单”,她于是自己下菜地摘,然后开着面包车去送。这帮助很温暖,可对李延周来说,精神意义更大。他的黄瓜已经两天不敢浇水了,天气预报说今天要下雨,这让他很作难,雨不养菜,一下雨就必须浇地,可一浇水,黄瓜一晚上就能蹿一截,再不摘就不行了。
   黄瓜的难题还是开始,接下来还有两亩的番茄、一亩多的爬豆和一些茄子。收获高峰一旦到来,仅番茄一个品种,隔两天摘一次,每次都要400公斤以上。对李延周来说,揪心的日子起码还要延续两个月。

  
求解
  “CSA模式”或可借鉴

   释词:CSA模式
  即搭建消费者和生产者之间直接沟通的桥梁,不通过超市、批发商等中间渠道,把城市社区居民和有机农场直接连接起来,自己组织“市场”。
   难题何解?对十几位市民和李延周的“直供菜”模式,有关人士建议,或许“CSA模式”可以借鉴。
   CSA是“社区支持农业”的英文简写,是国外在消除食品不安全问题上的一种农产品贸易形式。这种贸易形式上世纪60年代先后在日本和瑞典出现,1986年被引入美国。如今在美国已被2000多家农场采用。
   曾经在美国CSA农场实践半年的中国人民大学博士石嫣介绍说,CSA强调的是消费者和农民共担风险和收益。以美国为例,消费者要提前把下一年度的菜金交给农民。这样农民在种地的时候是没有经济风险的。
   从美国回来后,石嫣在北京创办了一个CSA农场——小毛驴农场。第一季发展了54户会员,之后有45户续约,还有近200户新会员申请加入。“小毛驴”让石嫣对CSA有了更多的理解。她觉得,CSA不再只是恢复耕地的地力和提供健康的食品,重要的是缩短人与人之间的距离,让一个社区充满活力。
   虽然李延周和他的十几位客户都是第一回听说CSA模式,但在“小毛驴”创办的“市民农业CSA联盟”的名单上,已经有了一家来自河南的企业——位于兰考县的一家有机农场,而据记者了解,在郑州,采用类似“CSA模式”销售的农场不下四五家。
   编后
   让良心菜农走得更远更好
   此事中,李延周的“理想”无疑是对的:种菜就该跟化肥、农药不沾边;尝到天然蔬菜“甜头”的张阿姨,愿望也很本真:“应该让更多人吃到这么好的菜。”原本,怀着美好愿景的供求双方,收获的应该是皆大欢喜的结局,但尴尬最终为何难以避免?
   这,恰恰击中目前“中产特供”的软肋。试想,普通市民有几人会舍弃两三块钱一斤的黄瓜不买,而要买下6块钱一斤的黄瓜?即便真的是“纯天然”,也只是通过口口相传让一些人知道了,而更多的人并不知道或不可能相信……因而,既要有类似的“CSA模式”,对双方加以制约,仅凭后来张阿姨式的“精神支持”,这样“童话般”的合作自然走不远;同时,又要设法增加产品透明度、消除供求双方隔膜,才能保证李延周们走得更远更好。
 

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